SVRYLAND STATE BOARD OF FORESTIff' 



?^ARO B^MATHEWS 

' CxecuiiVe Offieer 



F. W. BESLEY 

State Forcttor 



Basket billow Culture 

■ I I i ll I l. i l „ , - i, - ..ll . ( l - ll ^ . 11 I. MU I M .. . , .!'.« .. ' • • • ,1. n i ^ .l ^ ^ ^ .11, 1 .1 -~-^ 

in Maryland 



BY 



KARL E. PFEIFFER, Assistant Forestei 




BALTIMORE, MARYLAND 
AUGUSTi 1919 



MARYLAND STATE BOARD OF FORESTRY 



EDWARD B. MATHEWS 

Executive Officer 



F. W. BESLEY 

State Forester 



Basket Willow Culture 
in Maryland 



BY 



KARL E. PFEIFFER, Assistant Forester 




BALTIMORE, MARYLAND 
AUGUST, 1919 






State Forester's Office 

McCOY HALL, 311 W. Monument Street 
BALTIMORE, MD. 



F. W. BESLEY State Forester 

J. GORDON DORRANCE Assistant Forester 

KARL E. PFEIFFER Assistant Forester 

JOSHUA A. COPE Assistant Forester 

DOROTHY C. ERASER Secretary 

SARA M. REESE .Clerk 




wov •••}" 



19)9 



CONTENTS 



Page 

Introduction 5 

Importance of the Industry in Maryland 7 

Selection of Planting Site 8 

Soil Preparation 8 

Kinds of Willows to Plant 9 

American Green 9 

Lemley and Patent Lamley 9 

Welsh or Purple 10 

When to Plant 11 

Cuttings for Planting 11 

How to Store Cuttings for Planting 12 

Stock Used 12 

Spacing 13 

Replanting Openings 14 

Cultivation 14 

Harvesting the Crop 15 

When to Cut 15 

How to Cut 16 

Pitting and Drafting 16 

Steaming and Boiling 17 

Peeling 17 

Bundling 18 

Returns 18 

Markets 19 

Appendix. 

Enemies of the Willows 20 

Table of Gardens in Maryland 23 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Plate Facing Page 

I. Frontispiece Growth of a Waste Paper Basket 

II. The Four Common Basket Willows 6 

III. Fig. 1 Typical Maryland Willow Land 10 

Fig. 2 A Well-Kept Garden 10 

IV. Fig. 1 Willow Stools Forced Out by Frost 12 

Fig. 2 Willow Garden Damaged by "Wrap" and Weeds 12 

V. Fig. 1 Cutting 14 

Fig. 2 Drafting '14 

VI. Fig. 1 Pitted Willows 16 

Fig. 2 Breaking and Peeling Willows 16 

VII. Fig. 1 Tools Used in Breaking Willow Rods 18 

Fig. 2 Instruments Used for Bundling Willows 18 

VIII. Fig. 1 Willow Furniture 20 

Fig. 2 Willow Baskets 20 

IX. Fig. 1 Map Showing Important Willow Growing Centers in 

Maryland 22 



BASKET WILLOW CULTURE IN MARYLAND 



INTRODUCTION. 

This report is intended to assist in a practical way those who 
contemplate commercial culture of basket willows, and at the 
same time be of aid to those already engaged in growing them. 
The information secured is therefore of purely local application. 
No attempt has been made to go into the general history of willow 
growing in the United States, or to study conditions or oppor- 
tunities outside of Maryland. It is felt that this industry, for 
a long time of real importance to the State, may profitably be 
extended to other portions of Maryland where it is not now active, 
and be substantially enlarged in those sections where it is already 
well-known as a local industry. 

The writer personally inspected most of the Maryland gardens 
in the summer of 1915, again in 1917, and subsequently to that 
time. The first survey was made in 1913 by Assistant Forester 
J. A. Cope, and his observations — especially on the enemies of the 
willow — were useful for purposes of comparison, as also in the 
compilation of the present report. The investigation has been 
extended over a period of years in order to secure average results, 
and data which will be at once authoritative and informing. 

It is desired here to show appreciation to the members of the. 
Scientific Staff for their assistance and criticisms, and to the 
United States Forest Service for access to their research files and 
many of the illustrations which contribute largely to the interest 
and value of the work. 

Eeference has also been made to the bibliography following: 

Hubbard, W. F IT. S. 'Department of Agriculture, Forest Service Bulle- 
tin 46, "The Basket Willow." 

Mell, CD U. S. Department of Agriculture, Forst Service Cir- 
cular 14S, "Practical Results in Basket Willows." 

Mell, C. D IT. S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service Cir- 
cular 155, "Production and Consumption of Bas- 
ket Willows in the U. S. for 1906 and 1907." 



State Board of Forestry 

Lamb, G. N U. S. Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin 

(N. S.) 622. "Basket Willow Culture." 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service News 
Item, "European Willow Supply Cut Off." 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Weekly News Let- 
ter, July 1915, "Willows in Demand." 

Meier, F. R Annual Report of the State Geologist of New Jersey — 

1902. "Notes on Basket Willow Culture." 

Arnold, Paul E Pennsylvania Department of Forestry. Annual Re- 
port, 1903-04. "Rational Method for the Culti- 
vation of the Willow." 

Mell, C. D A.merican Forestry. October, 1911. "Basket Willow 

Culture in Maryland." 

Stephen, J. W Conservation Commission. State of New York, Bulle- 
tin 3, "Tlie Basket Willow." 

Stephen, J. W New York State College of Forestry at Syracuse Uni- 
versity. Circular 18, "Basket Willow Culture in 
New York State." 

Lamb, G. N American Forestry, April 1913. "Basket Willow a 

Profitable Crop. 



State Board of Forestry 7 

IMPORTANCE OF THE INDUSTRY IN MARYLAND. 

l^'rom statistics gathered by the United States Forest S,n'vice,* 
Maryland is the second largest producer and the third largest con- 
sumer of willow rods in the Union, being surpassed in quantity 
only b}^ New York and in consumption only by New York and 
Massachusetts. Mar3dand, however, is eighth in consumption of 
imported willows, thus showing that the willows grown in this 
State are practically all consumed locally and that very little in 
proportion is imported. 

The willow industry in Maryland has declined in the past few 
years due to higher labor costs in this country. The cheap Euro- 
pean willow had undoubtedly tended to someAA^hat cripple the wil- 
low industry in tlie United States before the war, but since then 
the scarcity of labor, together with its cost, have further depressed 
the industry. 

Since the beginning of the European War, the supply of willows 
from Europe has been cut off and the American manufacturers 
are compelled to rely on native stocks. In some cases Japanese 
willows have supplanted those from Europe, but there is still a 
great demand for the native raw material. This has caused an 
advance in the price of home-grown willows and thus made their 
cultivation more profitable. 

There is, in Maryland, a rather extensive trade in willow ware, 
the product going into baskets and furniture which are locally 
used. 

Basket willows are not grown commercially in this State, over 
nearly as great a range as possible. Experiments conducted by 
the U. S. Forest Service show that the willows can be grown 
throughout Maryland, with the exception of the far western 
coijnties. 

This is an excellent means for the utilization of the overflow 
lands and those not suitable for the production of good farm crops. 
There are many such places throughout the State, and there is 
no reason why the industry should not become a greater factor 
than it is. 



* Forest Service Circular 155. 



S State Board of Forestry 

SELECTION OF PLANTING SITE. 

It is a common idea that willows grow only on marshy land — - 
this is not the fact. They will grow on gronnd that is dry during 
the summer but wet in the winter and spring. The ideal site for 
a willow garden, however, is one where the water table is within 
2-() feet of the surface, thus giving surface drainage, but a constant 
supply of water. 

Basket willows, with favorable moisture conditions, will grow 
on a wide range of soils, although the best is a loose sandy loam. 

Care should be taken to have the garden free from surrounding 
shelters, as these not only are likely to form frost pockets, which 
cause upheaval of the plants, but by checking the winds, and allow- 
ing the dew to remain on the plants till late in the day, invite 
insects attacks and fungous diseases. In addition tlieie should be 
good drainage, if the land is low, as standing water is injurious 
to the plants and will eventually kill them if they are inundated 
too long. 

If possible, the garden should be so situated that it will be con- 
venient for the owner to visit and observe it frequently, as most 
insects, fungi and weeds may be checked if discovered in time. 

It dioes not in the least harm the gardens to be overflowed in 
the spring. On the contrary, the sediment deposited by flooding 
fertilizes and builds up the soil about the stools or stumps, and 
also tends to exterminate the insects which have wintered in the 
crevices of the stumps and in the ground. Standing water is 
harmful, however, and should be drained off. 

SOIL PREPARATION. 

The best results are secured, in a garden that is started on land 
not previously cultivated, by plowing the ground the season before 
and using the land for crops, such as corn or potatoes. This 
loosens the soil. If the ground is too low for the production of 
farm crops, it should be properly drained and plowed in the spring 
and left free from weeds for a season. Late in the fall it should 
again be plowed and left to weather during the winter. In the 
spring, it should be plowed again and then harrowed. Great care 
should be taken to avoid depressions where water might stand. 

A cheaper method often used, though with less satisfactory results 



State Board of Forestry 9 

both in establishing the garden and in the crop for the first few 
years, is to clear the land of trees and brush, mow doAvn the weeds 
and grasses and then burn all. The ashes of the burned rubbish 
should be strewn over the area to act as fertilizer. This is best 
done in the fall. 

If the garden is to be started on land already used for crops, 
a plowing and harrowing in the spring is all that is necessary. 

The more care given in preparing the planting site the better 
the chances of success — "for many failures to establish good gar- 
dens are due to the lack of proper preparation of the ground." 
Open ditches should be made in order to drain off any standing 
water, since this injures the stools. 

* Farmers' Bulletin 622 — U. S. Department of Agriculture. 

KINDS TO PLANT. 

American Greeit. {Salix amygdalma L.) 

American Green is one of the best producing willows in this 
country. It has a tendency to hold its shape better than Lemley 
or Welsh, and the wood is a brilliant white and very flexible. 

This willow grows best on fairly rich soils having a high degree 
of moisture, but will also grow on sandy situations, provided the 
water table is near the surface. The soil should not be too rich, 
for, while the rod produced is thicker and taller, the pith is much 
larger on account of the rapid growth, thus making the willow 
softer. 

The American Green is much in demand for the making of furni- 
ture and for the heavier and better grades of basket ware. It is 
easily peeled, and because of its large size, the peeling can be 
done at a lower cost per pound. Unfortunately, though this variety 
is the best basket willow grown in America, it is very susceptible 
to insect attack and diseases, and requires continual watching to 
avoid harm. 

The annual growth of the American Green ranges from 5-10 
feet per annum with an average of 7 feet. 

Lemley and Patent Lemley. {Salix pentandra minor and majcn\) 

The Lemley and Patent Lemley are very similar and no distinc- 
tion is made between the two in the gardens or in the market. For 
their cultivation, the most adaptable soil is a loose sandy loam 



10 State Board of Forestry 

with an abundant supjily of moisture. If possible, lieavy soils 
should be avoided, but if the garden is to be located on such land 
it should be deeply plowed before planting. When planted on 
too rich soil, these willows, as in the case of the American Green, 
are liable to grow pithy, while on the upland poorer soils, the rate 
of growth is slow, with shorter though tougher rods. 

The Lemleys attain a height of from 4-8 feet per annum, with an 
average of 6 feet, and are easily peeled by the sap method. They 
are also comparatively free from diseases and insects. One objec- 
tion to the Lemleys is that they tend to branch at the base unless 
planted fairly close, and they are also inclined to curve at the 
base, making them harder to prepare for the market. While the 
Lemleys are somewhat smaller and less elastic than the American 
Green, their uses are similar. 

However, it is not advisable to plant Lemleys exclusively, for 
a basket maker prefers some variety. 

Welsh or Purple Willou?. {Saliw purpuirea L.) 

The Welsh willow never grows as tall as either the American 
Green or the Lemleys, and is much harder to peel, but gives a very 
tough and elastic rod which seldom branches. 

It thrives best on moist, well-drained sandy loams, but will grow 
on a great variety of soils. It may be grown on rich soil without 
becoming soft and brittle; it may likewise be grown on hard soil 
that is comparatively dry. On such ground, however, the plants 
tend to become stunted. The Welsh willow can also stond the 
extremes of heat and cold and does reasonably well under a long 
dry spell. It is not very susceptible to insect or fungous attacks. 
The average growth is about 5 feet per annum, ranging from 3 
to 7 feet depending upon soil conditions 

The yield of Welsh is small, so that it should only be planted 
in conjunction with other species. This willow is used in the finer 
work of basketmaking and also when green, as cordage in the 
garden and in tree nurseries. 

The following table showing the rank and relative valu^' of Amer- 
ican Green, Lemley and Welsh willows under average conditions 
in regard to matters influencing profitable production, may be found 
interesting, 1 being the best. 




PLATE III 

FIG. 1. TYPICAL MARYLAND WILLOW LAND. PART OF THE GARDEN HAS BEEN CUT. 

ELKRIDGE. HOWARD COUNTY 




PLATE III 

FIG. 2. A WELL-KEPT GARDEN. ELKRIDGE. HOWARD COUNTY 



State Board of Forestry 11 

American. Lemley. Welsh. 

On wet soils 1 2 3 

On dry soils 3 2 1 

Yield per acre 1 2 3 

For general purposes .... 1 2 3 

Disease resistance 3 1 2 

Continued productivity ... 1 3 2 

Least cultivation necessary 12 3 

Production of straight rods 2 3 1 

Ease in peeling 1 2 3 

Low cost of cuttings 2 3 1 

Number of cuttings per 100 

pounds of rods 3 2 1 

George M. Lamb, U. S. Forest Service. 

WHEN TO PLANT. 

The best time for planting willows is dnring March or April, 
after the frost is ont of the ground. 

The ground is softest tnen and the work of "sticking" the cuttings 
in the ground is easiest. The roots have a chance to spread out 
more in the soft ground, taking a firmer hold and rendering the 
jdant less liable to heaving the following winter. 

Fall planting is possible on high dry ground where there is little 
danger of heaving. In this way the plants get an earlier start in 
the spring. It is, however, not as sure a method as planting in 
the spring. 

CUTTINGS FOR PLANTING. 

Cuttings for spring planting are best made during the late win- 
ter and should be undertaken at least six weeks before planting, 
thus giving them time to callous over at each end. If the planting 
is done in the autumn, the cuttings can be made either two weeks 
after the leaves have fallen from the shoot or still better, after 
the first few frosts have ripened the wood. 

In making cuttings for planting, the ends should be made clean 
and smooth if the plants from the cuttings are not to be inferior. 
Such tools as corn knives or pruning shears should be used in 
making the cutting. Whichever tool is used, it should always be 
sharp. 

Only good, round rods should be used for making cuttings. All 
of the rod except the two feet at the top can be used and each 
cutting should be about 12 inches long. 



12 State Board op Forestry 

HOW TO STORE CUTTINGS FOR PLANTING. 

The best way to store the cuttings until planting time, is to 
pack them in an upright position in a room where the tempera- 
ture is low and even. They should be covered with sand which is 
moist, not wet, to a depth of about two inches. If the bottoms 
are in sand, and the tops covered with burlap or sacking, both 
ends will become properly calloused. When other material, such 
as sawdust, is used to cover up the cuttings, care should be taken 
to avoid heating, which is disastrous. Freezing will not injure 
the cuttings so long as they remain dormant, but repeated freez- 
ing and thawing should be guarded against. 

STOCK USED. 

Cuttings from one-year-old shoots may be used in establishing 
a new garden, although they are not as desirable as cuttings from 
the two-year-old shoots because the younger cuttings require more 
cultivation for the first few years, due to the fact that they are 
slower in developing. One-year-old cuttings should never be used 
for filling in vacancies in an established garden; the older plants 
will soon outgrow the new, eventually killing them by excessive 
shade. Also, one-year-old stock should never be used on poorly 
prepared, weedy ground or on soil in low physical condition. On 
the whole, the two-year planting stock will prove more satisfactory 
because it makes a hardier stool from the beginning. 

When starting a new garden, it is best to secure cuttings about 10 
to 18 inches long and place them in the ground from 8 to 14 inches 
deep, with the tops upward and leaving at least two buds above 
the ground. In filling in open places in an established garden, it 
is advisable to use 4 to 5 foot two-year-old stock, and place it 
in the ground to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. The longer rods are 
used in this connection because they are able to compete with the 
old stools; the shorter cuttings would be shaded out the first 
season. 

Too great emphasis cannot be put on selecting goodj sound shoots 
from which to get cuttings, as any defect or injury in the cutting 
may cause serious trouble later on. Cuttings should not be made 
from rods showing a discolored center, which indicates rot, as the 
stools will also become infected and the plant quickly destroyed. 

Calloused cuttings are more apt to show better growth from the 





PLATE IV 
FIG. 1. WILLOW STOOLS FORCED OUT BY FROST, ELKRIDGE, HOWARD COUNTY 






PLATE IV 

FIG. 2. WILLOW GARDEN SERIOUSLY DAMAGED BY WRAP' AND WEEDS. 
ELKRIDGE, HOWARD COTNTY 



State Board of Forestry 13 

start than fresh ones. Cuttings made after growth has begun 
should never be used, as their chances of surviving are poor. One- 
year cuttings for phmting can be purchased for about .$3.00 a 
thousand; two-year cuttings, a foot long, for about $8.00 to flO.OO 
a thousand. 

SPACING. 

Spacing is one of the most important factors in the establish- 
ment of a garden. Close spacing reduces the weed crop after the 
garden has been established, and little cultivation is needed. If 
The spacing is too close, however, the air circulation of the garden 
is poor and the vitality impaired. 

With the American Green, close spacing is advantageous, for while 
it will not grow quite as high it will produce tougher rods, this 
being especially true on rich soil. 

Lemleys should also be closely spaced, for they are then able 
to shade the ground well and to thin themselves. 

The Welsh, on the other hand, should not be closely spaced, 
for even with dense spacing there is not enough shade to keep out 
the weeds. With wide spacing the rods are much longer than 
with the closer spacing. 

Most of the growers in Maryland use wide spacing in order to 
facilitate the cutting of the weeds, which is the only cultivation 
that most of the gardens have. This wide spacing is also due to 
the fact that when the gardens were first started, this method 
was followed by the pioneers of the willow culture, and later comers 
have made no changes. Wide planting is also cheaper as not so 
many plants are used. The average spacing of willows in Mary- 
land is about 36 to 42 inches for the rows, and 15 to 16 inches for 
th€i plants in the rows. The poorer the soil the wider the spacing 
should be. 

Taking all things into consideration for the different species and 
the different soils, the following spacing is suggested for Mary- 
land : 

Spacing for Willows on Different Soils. 

Rich soil. Medium soil. Poor soil. 

"Variety. inches. Inches. Inches. 

American Green 10 x 24 10 x 24 12 x 30 

Lemley and Pat. Lemley . . 10 x 24 10 x 24 12 x 36 

Welsh or Purple 10x24 10x30 12x36 



14 State Board of Forestry 

The simi^lest accurate method of planting is to stretch a line 
across the garden with the proper spacing of the plants designated 
by bits of cloth ; the cnttings are then placed on the ground at the 
points so indicated. An average of about seven thousand cuttings 
can be set out by two men in a day on ordinary soft soil, one man 
])lacing the cuttings and the other pressing them firmly into the 
ground. 

Number of Plants per Acre with Diflferent Spacings. 

Approximate distance No. of plants 

apart. per acre. 

IS in. X 6 in 58,080 

24 " X 6 " 43,560 

30 " X 9 " .34,848 

24 " X 9 " 29.040 

24 " X 10 " 26,136 

24 " X 12 " 21,780 

30 " X 10 " 20,900 

36 " X 10 " 17,424 

30 " X 12 " 17,424 

42 " X 10 " 14.9.35 

36 " X 12 " 14,520 

42 " X 12 " 12,445 

REPLANTING OPENINGS. 

All openings in the garden caused by the death of plants should 
be filled in during the autumn in, order to give them an early start 
the following spring. Individual plants are continually dying off 
i rom various causes, and while the percentage each year is not great, 
still, if the garden is left for a number of years without replacing, 
it will in time become poorly stocked and not as easy to return to a 
normal density. 

As has been stated before, tAvo-year-old stock from 4 to 5 feet 
high should be used, and allowed to grow for two years before 
establishing a stool. If the replants are too high the second year, 
so as to shade the older plants, they may be cut back to their 
original height. 

CULTIVATION. 

During the first year the garden should be cultivated thoroughly. 
If the rows are wide enough apart a horse cultivator may be used ; 
otherwise it must be done by hand. 

Two or three hoeings the first season and at least two the 







PLATE V 

FIG. 1. CUTTING 



f-^.^o-icfe^''^**^ 




PLATE V 

FIG, 2. DRAFTING 



State Board op Forestry 15 

second are necessary, as the crown cover is relatively small during 
this period and the rank growth of weeds which is likely to spring 
up, must be kept down. After the second year one hoeing is desir- 
able, in the spring. If the weeds do appear they should be cut 
before their seeds ripen; the weeds can be laid in the rows be- 
tween the plants and left to rot, thus fertilizing the soil. Cultiva- 
tion is not so essential on bottom lands that are inundated in the 
spring, but is very essential on lands that are not flooded if the 
best results are to be obtained. 

The gardens should not be cultivated with a horse for more than 
the first two or three years, for after that time the roots have 
fully developed and are more liable to injury from a horse cultiva- 
tor than with a hoe. 

In Farmers' Bulletin 622, of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
the Forest Service offers the following suggestion: that when the 
garden is first started, the rows be three to four feet apart so that 
they may be easily gone through with a horse cultivator during 
the first two years. In the third spring, cuttings should be set 
in between the existing rows. These cuttings should be 4 to 5 feet 
tall, as they must compete for light with the already established 
plants. Thorough cultivation before planting the new cuttings, 
or sets, saves one hoeing. It is advisable to allow the new plants 
to grow for two years before cutting them back to the ground. 

The more care taken of the garden the first few years, the less 
it will require in later ones. 

The garden should be frequently inspected and all pests — whether 
weeds, such as morning glory and wrap, or insects, as worms and 
caterpillars — should be thoroughly cleaned out. 

HARVESTING THE CROP. 
When to Cut. 

The right time to cut willows depends on the method of peeling 
to be used. In the case of the natural sap peeling, the rods should 
be cut at least six weeks before peeling and left to stand in the pits. 
The usual practice is to cut them some time in February when 
the snow is off the ground, so as to secure low stumps. If artificial 
spring conditions are to be employed in raising the sap, or steam- 
ing is used, the rods may be cut as soon as the leaves are off in 
the fall. 



16 State Board of Forestry 

The stool should be cut as closely as possible, since low stools ofifer 
opening, as this causes the stumps to bleed and lose vitality. 

How to Cut. ^ 

In cutting the rods, only sharp tools should be used. Dull knives 
make ragged cuts and are liable to pull on the roots more than is 
neccessary. The best tool to use is a hook knife. Pruning shears 
are very good but the time required to cut the rods this way is 
nearly double that of cutting with a knife. The willows are held 
in one hand and the cutting done by a quick upward stroke of the 
knife held in the other. 

The stool should be cut as closely as possible, since low stool offer 
less chance of mechanical injury and disease. 

PITTING AND DRAFTING. 

As the rods are cut, they should be tied in bundles of about an 
armful each and taken to the pits. The rods are now drafted or 
sorted into different sizes. This is usually done by placing the 
I'ods in a barrel which has been slightly sunk in the ground and the 
head knocked out. A stick is nailed to the side with the different 
sizes indicated on it, and the rods inside the barrel graded accord- 
ing to their respective height classes. Two iron hoops may be 
fastened a few feet part, and substituted for the barrel. Small wil- 
lows are used to fasten the bundles. 

The bundles are now placed in the pits which should be located 
conveniently to where the peeling is to be done. Too great care 
cannot be taken to have the butts as even as possible so that they 
may all rest on the bottom of the pit. Otherwise the sap will not 
rise and the rods will depreciate. The pits should be shallow, 
with a supply of water which is easily regulated, for the willows 
should not stand in more than 2 to 3 inches of water, a greater 
depth causing discoloration of the butts. The pits should be so 
placed that no freshets or heavy rains can flood them. The ideal 
situation is where they are assured a uniform depth of water with 
little fluctuation, and protection from the wind. Wooden or metal 
rails or racks, 2 to 3 feet high, are placed around the pits and 
occasionally across, in order to keep the bundles upright. The 
bundles should not be packed too closely in the pits. 

If the rods are pitted in a cellar or especially constructed house, 




PLATE VI 

FIG. 1. PITTED WILLOWS: AMERICAN GREEN, DARK: LEMLEY. LIGHT 




PLATE VI 

FIG. 2. BREAKING AND PEELING WILLOWS. LANSDOWNE. BALTIMORE 



18 State Board op Forestry 

BUNDLING. 

If the rods are kept according to their sizes, as they have been 
peeled, there is no need for further drafting. Otherwise, they must 
be drafted in the same manner as has been previously explained. 

The assorted rods are next made up in bundles and are ready 
for shipment. Several methods of tying the bundles are in use. 
The simplest method is one in which a belt or strap is thrown 
around the bundles where it is to be tied, drawn tight, and fastened, 
thus forcing the rods tightly together and holding them in j>lace. 
The bundle is then tied with twine or very small willow rods. A 
simple machine employed makes use of the same principle, but is 
operated on a frame supporting a cradle in which the rods are 
laid. The strap around the rods is operated by a crank, worked 
I»y hand or foot power. This machine is easily made by the grower, 
and saves him time and labor in comparison with the old way 
of using the strap only. Bundles are usually fastened twice, once 
near the butt and then about two-thirds of the way up. Excep- 
tionally long rods require an additional fastening. 

RETURNS. 

Peeled willow rods bring from twelve to twenty-two cents a 
pound, depending on length and quality. 

Production per acre ranges from 1,750 pounds to 2,500 pounds, 
depending on site and season. This makes the gross returns from 
|210 to 1500 for each acre planted in willow. 

The cost of establishing a garden — exclusive of the price of the 
land, which ranges from |10 to |50 per acre, and its preparation 
for planting — would be as follows for spacing of 24 x 10 inches : 

Cuttings (about 26.500 at $8 per tliousaud) $212.00 

Planting (two men at $2.50 per day), .3 days 15.00 

$227.00 

With spacing of 3G x 12 inches : 

Cuttings (about 15.000 at $8 per thousand) $120.00 

Planting (two men at $2.50 per day), IVi days 7.50 

$127.50 




PLATE VII 

FIG. 1. TOOLS USED IN BREAKING WILLOW RODS 



PLATE VII 

FIG. 2. INSTRUMENTS USED FOR BUNDLING WILLOWS 



State Board op Forestry 19 

The cost of raising crops of willows of 1,750 pounds to 2,500 
pounds per acre, exclusive of buying the land and stock, and plant- 
ing, would be as follows : 

Cultivating $20 to $50 

Cuttiug ( three men crew ) 50 to 75 

Peeling (one man, two women crew ) 50 to 100 

Biuidliug 5 to 7 

$125 $232 

This would give, after the garden has been started, a net annual 
return of about |75 to |200 per acre. 

The average length of life of closely-spaced plants is about 8 to 
9 years, wide-spaced plants, 10 to 12 years. Close-spaced gardens, 
however, give a larger yield, which offsets the shorter life. If the 
garden, or portions of it in rotation, are allowed about every five 
years to go for a season without cutting, it will improve the yield 
and lengthen the life of the garden. 

When openings are filled in and the garden kept fully stocked, 
and in good condition, there is no limit to its productivity. 

MARKETS. 

Baltimore is the center of the Willow Industry in Maryland. In 
its immediate vicinity are located the majority of basket and furni- 
ture makers, as well as the gardens themselves. The manufac- 
turers take most of the willow crop grown in this State, besides 
importing a large amount from other States. The reason for the 
use of the imported willows is that the rods are smaller and often 
better sorted. The native growers do not like to produce the short 
rods, because it is relatively more expensive. 

Willow is frequently used to wrap nursery stock, and baskets 
of 'unpeeled rods are also used to transport the smaller plants. 
These baskets have the double advantage over wooden boxes of 
being light, and more easily and cheaply handled. 

Now that the European supply has diminished, more attention 
should be paid to the native production of willows. With the 
application of scientific methods, the industry should very soon 
assume a j)lace of actual importance. 



20 State Board of Forestry 



APPENDIX 



ENEMIES OF THE WILLOW. 
Atmosphere. 

DRY WEATHER is bad, especially in the spring, as it induces the 
blight and stunts the growth of the rods. If the gardens can be 
Hooded or irrigated, it should be occasionallly resorted to in case of 
a long protracted dry spell. 

Hail storms are very injurious, because they tear through the 
bark and bruise the wood. This makes an unsightly spot on the 
peeled rod, reducing the commercial value greatly. 

Plant Life — Parasitic. 

THE DODDER, Cuseuta epithymun, is commonly known as 
"wrap." This is one of the worst pests of the Willow Garden. The 
small black seed is carried in by the overflowing of the gardens, and 
is also distributed by birds, which feed on it. The seeds germinate 
in the ground in the late spring and send up a minute thread, 
Avhich wraps around the willow, taking root in its inner bark. The 
connection with the ground immediately dies. This dodder is very 
harmful to the rods, for wherever it has taken root in the willow, 
black marks are left, spoiling the appearance and also rendering 
it brittle at that point. The only method of keeping this under 
control is to go through the garden at least every two weeks and 
strip the vines wherever it appears. Especial care should be used 
in not letting the seed come to maturity in late August or early 
September. If the dodder is found early and kept stripped it does 
3iot have as great damaging effect as if allowed to grow unhindered. 

THE RUST, Melapsora Hartigi, commonly called the Blight, has 
only been found on the American Green willows and seems to be 
induced by Avj weather in the spring, especially in sandy soil. 
Here the sand becomes heated during the day, and when the cool 
night air strikes it, a fog is created which' fosters the develop- 
ment of the blight. 

About the beginning of June, small reddish clusters appear on 




PLATE VIII 

FIG. 1. WILLOW FURNITURE 




PLAT E VIII 

FIG. 2. WILLOW BASKETS 



State Board op Forestry 21 

the under side of the leaf — usually in the newest growth — and 
work downward. The last stage, in the fall, remains on the fallen 
leaves over winter and from these old leaves the new growth is 
infected the following spring. This rust is very destructive and 
ieadens the rod. Several successive years of this blight will kill 
a stump. 

Spraying with a lime-sulfur solution, and raking and burning 
the leaves in the fall is the best remedy. 

MILDEW, Erysiplie adunca, is found on the willows, especially 
Lemley, but is not very harmful. 

BLACK SPOTS, one of the Rliytisma, a fungus, is also found on 
the leaves of willows, but does not particularly injure the rods. 

Plant Life — Non-Parasitic. 

MORNING GLORY, species of Convolvulus. This weed does im- 
mense damage to the willow by climbing around the rods or binding 
several together, causing them to fall over. The tight binding 
around the stem also leaves welts on the rods. Continual pulling up 
of the vines and not allowing them to go to seed is the only remedy. 

WILD HOP, species of Polifgommn, acts similarly to the morn- 
ing glory in bending the willows, but if once pulled up will not 
sucker. 

Animal Enemies. 

MUSKRATS, MICE and sometimes RABBITS often do damage 
to a willow garden by gnawing off the shoots in winter. Traps are 
the most effective method of combating them. 

Insects. 

THE WILLOW SAWFLY, Janus integer. This insect stings the 
top of the willow shoot and lays its egg, at the same time girdling 
the twig to prevent further growth. The eggs are laid in June and 
very soon the young larva or grub burrows down in the center, be- 
coming dormant, or in the pupa stage, in September. The dormant 
stage is passed in the center shoot. American Green and Welsh are 
the most susceptible. 



22 State Board op Forestry 

The best method of control is to cut back the tips of the affected 
shoots. As soon as these begin to wilt they should be cut off three 
inches below the point where the stem is girdled. These tips can 
be left on the ground or burned.* 

Other Insects. There are many other insects, such as caterpil- 
lars, which defoliate the plant. These may easily be controlled by 
spraying with some arsenical preparation. 



* U. S. Department of Agriculture. Bulletin 46. 



State Board of Forestry 23 



TABLE OP WILLOAV GROWERS AND GARDENS IN THE STATE. 

ELKRIDGE. 

Acres 

Name of Owner and Address Lemley Am. Green Welsh Total 

J. T. Martin, Elkridge 3. 4. 7 qq 

Anton Skrivonick. Elkridge 10. 8. 1. 19 00 

Cyril Peleska, Elkridge 9. 1. i_ 11^00 

Robert Hawkins, Elkridge 3. 2. .50 5 50 

Charles E. Pitzinger, Elkx-idge i. 2. .. 3. 00 

John Pitzinger, Sr., Lansdowne 5.50 7.50 2. 15.00 

John Pitzinger, Jr., Hanover 5. 4. i 10.00 

Total Acreage Elkridge District 36.50 28.50 5.50 70.50 

LANSDOWNE. 

Henry Link. Halethorpe, R. F. D 2.50 1. .25 3.75 

Cris Kaline. Halethorpe, R. F. D 2.75 2.75 .25 5.25 

Michael Reitz, Halethorpe, R. P\ D .50 . . .50 

Fred. Link, Halethorpe, R. F. D 50 .75 .25 1.50 

Katy Graysaker, Winans Station, P. R. R.. . .50 2. .50 3.00 

Mrs. R. Voetsch, Halethorpe, R. F. D 3. .. 3.00 

J. W. Siebert, 546 W. Conway St., Balto 2. .50 .50 3.00 

Frank Ciner, Lansdowne .50 .50 .25 1 . 25 

Total Acreage Lansdowne District 8.25 11.00 2.00 21.25 

PATAPSCO. 

Frank Kaiss. Lansdowne, R. F. D 1. 1.50 . . 2.50 

M. Richwein. 815 W. Lexington St., Balto.. 4. 7. .50 11.50 

John Robinson, Lansdowne. R. F. D 4. . , 4.00 

Sweetcjer Liuthicum 1. 2. .. 3.00 



'Total Acreage Patapsco District 6.00 14.50 .50 21.00 

ROSEDALE. 

Louis Hanzlick, Rosedale 2. 1. .. 3. 00 

Louis Marden, Rosedale 4 . 1 . . . 5 . 00 



Total Acreage Rosedale District 6.00 2.00 .. 8.00 

CROWNS VI LLE. 

Crownsville State Hospital, Crownsville 3.00 5.00 2.00 10.00 



24 State Board of Forestry 

CATONSVILLE. 

Acres 

Name of Owner and Address Lemley Am. Green Welsh Total 

Spring Grove State Asylum, Catonsville 1.00 .. 2.00 3.00 

LAUREL. 

J. Lohrig. 203 N. Wolfe St., Baltimore 20.00 . . 5.00 25.00 

TUSCORORA. 

Curtis Geiser, 349 Madison St., Frederick.. 5.00 12.00 6.00 23.00 

TOTAL ACREAGE. 

Elkridge District 36.50 2.S.50 5.50 70.50 

Lansdowne District 8.25 11.00 2.00 21.25 

Patapsco District 6.00 14.50 .50 21.00 

Rosedale District 6-00 2.00 .. 8.00 

Crownsville District 3.00 5.00 2.00 10.00 

Catonsville District 1-00 .. 2.00 3.00 

Laurel District 20.00 . . 5.00 25.00 

Tuscorora District 5.00 12.00 6.00 23.00 

Total Acreage State 85 . 75 73 . 00 23 . 00 181 . 75 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 




